Texte and photos by Rodolphe Pelosse
Lisbon wins everyone over—it's hard not to fall for its “feel-good spirit.” From hill to hill, you walk, you climb, and you feel so good that hunger becomes a gift. And that’s when you can thank Lisbon’s vibrant food scene, which loves to shake up tradition… without ever betraying it.
THE KIOSKS OF LISBON

In Lisbon, they don’t have an Eiffel Tower or a Taj Mahal. Some cheeky folks might point out the Belém Tower. Wow, what an experience—the Belém Tower!!!
No, Lisbon’s true monument is the kiosk. I know, it might sound ironic said like that. But it’s not! First of all, they’ve been around since 1870—so we’re talking about a proper historical institution. Back then, they served wine, beer, and little snacks—way before anyone was calling it “street food.”
Sure, kiosks hit a bit of a slump last century, but let’s face it: the Lisbon kiosk is having a serious comeback. Dozens of them are scattered across the city, mostly in public squares.
Pick a favorite? Some try, but honestly, it’s tough. What makes a good kiosk a good kiosk? It’s the moment you stumble upon it. A kiosk reveals itself when your stomach calls it forth. A kiosk is instinctive. You can walk past one a thousand times without even noticing it.
So—better to visit one kiosk a thousand times, or a thousand kiosks just once? I don’t have the answer. But when a craving or a thirst taps you on the shoulder, lift your eyes from your phone and grab a coffee, a pastel de nata, or a tiny sandwich from that little hut tucked into the corner of a square.
And if the sun is doing its job, it’ll invite you to settle into a chair right next to it and savor this small, delightfully local pause.
📍 Dozens of them, all across Lisbon
✔️ Open every day, at any hour of the day
💶 Expect to spend between €5 and €1
TAPISCO
⚠️ A word of warning for light eaters and seed nibblers: turn back now. This is a team sport, and everything’s meant to be shared. And with portions like these, you’ll want to show up as a well-oiled duo—because it’s going to be a workout!
This is a team lunch in the most literal sense: think of it as a doubles match at the table. First serve—everyone stays back, stunned. Second—knowing glances are exchanged, a strategy starts to form. Third, fourth—now it’s all about finesse and instinct. One goes up to the net, the other holds back. You breathe, you time it right. The match is on. And you'd better come prepared.
Don’t get tricked by the server’s advice: “4 to 6 plates to share.” Start with four, gauge the field, and listen to your stomach. Because spoiler: it’s delicious, and those plates are going to be wiped clean.
This isn’t about Michelin-star subtlety (though the chef has one at his other spot)—it’s about bold generosity and high-quality ingredients. Here, you feast on petiscos (Portuguese tapas) turned into a full-blown banquet. It hits all the right notes: rich, flavorful, unapologetically indulgent.
At the counter facing the kitchen, the vibe is lively, and the (short) wine list does its job just fine.
In short: big-hearted servings, a match-day atmosphere, and dishes that’ll make you want to play into overtime.
📍 R. Dom Pedro V 81, 1250-096 Lisboa
✔️ Monday to Friday: 12pm–4pm & 6:30pm–12am // Weekends & public holidays: 12pm–12am
💶 €40–60
TABERNA DA RUA DAS FLORES
Here’s a spot often ranked among Lisbon’s best traditional eateries. The vibe? 100% authentic: kitschy chandeliers, time-warp décor… and yet, no tourist trap here—absolutely not. Behind this old-school facade lies a true culinary gem.
The tapas (called petiscos in Portugal), scribbled in chalk on a blackboard, change daily depending on what’s fresh. And that’s when the appetite sneaks up on you—time to whip out the translator app if you don’t speak Portuguese: scallops with coarse salt, polvo à lagareiro (octopus with olive oil), croquettes of meagre fish, smoked veal… the struggle to choose is real.
Thankfully, the dining room team is well-equipped to handle this mini existential crisis: sharp recommendations, spot-on wine pairings, and portions designed so you can try everything without rolling out the door.
⚠️ Pro tips: no credit cards, no reservations, and keep that translation app handy. For everything else, just go with the flow. Even the dated décor ends up charming you.
📍 Rua das Flores 103 109, 1200-194 Lisboa
✔️ Monday to Saturday: 12pm–11:30pm // Sunday: 12pm–6pm
💶 €30–50
BOUBOU’S
Down a small Lisbon street, a discreet door opens onto a grand journey. This spot is one of the city’s most exciting rising stars. No need to go on and on about chef Louise Bourrat’s impressive résumé (think Ducasse alum and winner of Top Chef 2022)—because the real story is told on the plate.
Step into the floral dining room—or even better, grab a seat at the counter with a direct view of the brigade in full swing. And then, buckle up: it’s a sensory carousel, with umami as the guiding thread. Every dish unfolds with comforting, rounded depth. By the third course, silence falls—the umami effect has struck. Even the chattiest guests are rendered speechless by the quiet intensity of it all.
From the seven-course menu (just the right amount to satisfy without overwhelming) to the optional extras, everything is spot-on. Special shoutout to the crust chips—yes, chips made from bread crust!—and the wine pairings that verge on magical. Add the team’s warm, radiant hospitality, and you’ve got a near-perfect culinary love affair.
📍 R. do Monte Olivete 32A, 1200-280 Lisboa
✔️ Monday to Sunday: 7pm–12am
💶 €100–120
PRADO
In Lisbon, Prado is that go-to address everyone whispers about like a well-kept secret. Always packed, forget about showing up unannounced—reservations are highly recommended! Go for lunch when the sun floods the high-ceilinged room, bathing it in golden light for max ambiance.
On the plate, it’s bold, bistronomic territory: get ready to swoon over the melting quail eggs, caramelized onion rice with smoked eel, or the veal sweetbreads elevated by a delicately eel-infused hollandaise (yes, eel again!). And the final knockout: brioche pain perdu with coffee ice cream and Madeira sabayon.
Prado also boasts one of Lisbon’s most stunning wine cellars, packed with natural wines full of unexpected delights. Let the staff guide you—when natural wine is well chosen, it’s a revelation in a bottle. Bonus: they’ve opened a wine bar right next door, perfect for sipping great bottles without committing to a full meal. Though honestly, skipping the food would be a shame.
Prado checks every box for an all-out treat: luminous setting, daring cuisine, and a killer natural wine selection. A true Lisbon gem.
📍 Tv. das Pedras Negras 2, 1100-404 Lisboa
✔️ Tuesday & Wednesday: 7pm–10:30pm // Thursday to Saturday: 12pm–3pm & 7pm–10:30pm
💶 €70–90