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Veggies do it burger

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By Rodolphe Pelosse and Thibault Brunat

(c) Irene Kredenets

The veggie wave is gently but surely rolling over the French capital. From the brasserie to the gastronomic restaurant, including street-food, the offer is becoming denser to satisfy all palates and all budgets. Even the meatatarian totem that is the hamburger does not escape the rule. A quick overview of what’s best between two slices of buns.

 

GINZBURGER

One address, no Insta accounts. In other words, if Ginzburger is after something, it’s not the light. But those who know know. And they meet here. 100% vegan card (and therefore vegan friendly, QED), and above all... not stingy for a penny. Burgers in shambles, dips to share, salads to calm the game (or pretend).

Steaks? Chickpeas and soy proteins. On paper, you can raise an eyebrow in apprehension. Honestly... the job is clearly well done. Simple. Basic. The buns are vegan too, with zero animal protein on the horizon. And above all, no meat cosplay. No ill-conceived imitations. It’s assumed from start to finish. And that changes everything. Because in the end, we don’t judge the resemblance... but the taste, the texture, the pleasure. And on that, no disappointment. It’s damn good. The fries? The crazy. The lemonade? The little kick that wakes everyone up. We leave with the smile, and especially with an idea in mind: the vegan cuisine is no longer a case, nor a speech... It’s just a greedy option among the others. And here, clearly, it holds up.

13 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004 Paris

15 - 20 €

 

SPECIMEN

 

BAAAAM... a new player who enters the burger arena. Specimen arrives with two addresses in Paris. In front of the one in the 9th arrondissement, a brief moment of observation: the neighbourhood has become a real hunting ground. Less than 100 meters away? Two other spots. One of them right across the street. The waiter even gave me a little smirk when I came out... like "we saw you, man".

I’ll try the vegetarian one. To replace the steak? A portobello. And then a little flashback... Before the veggie wave, when we heard “Portobello,” we thought directly of the London neighbourhood. The mushroom? Not really on the radar. Today it’s the opposite: big hat (not English, so), fleshy texture and small smoky taste... it ticks all the boxes of ground steak: it was no less necessary to finish between two buns.

At Specimen, they twisted the zinzin: the portobello is breaded. And that changes everything. Crispy outside, melting inside, slightly caramelized... it crunches, it lives. We do not replace meat; we change the playing field.

And the fries are clearly not there for reference. Homemade mayo? 100% indecent. The kind that makes people dive back into it without thinking.

No vegan burger here (bread makes resistance), but honestly... we’re just about to tick all the boxes. It smells like “coming soon”.

In short, another spot that comes to kill the game. And in that neighborhood... you’ll have to have the fangs.

25 Rue de Douai, 75009 Paris

15€

 

LES TONTONS VEG

 

Another vegan burger? Yes... but wait two seconds before rolling your eyes.

Because right now, we’re at Tonton Veg’s. And clearly, they didn’t come to play the role of figuration uncles. Many people put them directly at the top of the Parisian pile... and for that, it’s hard to argue too much.

The burger is solid. The bread does its job just right: neither sluggish nor mealy-headed, making your mouth dry. And above all... something is going on. A real little choreography of seasonings that comes to tickle where necessary. It’s greedy, it’s clean, it sounds good.

Mini flat anyway, let’s be honest, the Beyond steak is a bit fussy. Far from being bad, but in the middle of all this joyful mess of flavors, he gets a bit forgotten. As if he hadn’t found his place at the table.

Little advice of a friend: go on the smashed. Now, we’re changing scenery. The baking caramelizes all that, it’s crispy, it gives more character... and suddenly, we’re seriously getting closer to a good traditional burger. The kind that brings everyone together without unnecessary debate. Ah yes!! the fries, naturally vegan in fact, get everyone to agree. Nothing to add.

And maybe that’s the real move here: going with a veggie friend. Like that, no hassle. Everyone finds their happiness; everyone crunches with a smile... and no one feels like they’ve given up something on the way.

8 Rue de Paradis, 75010 Paris

15 €

 

GREEN FARMER

Green Farmer... at first it was hidden behind walls, in dark kitchen mode. No gym, no fuss, just enough to send some heavy stuff home. And then... boom... the project took on thickness. Today? Two addresses in Paris (and a few others elsewhere) and a real place in the place of vegan fast food.

Here, we don’t reinvent the wheel... we repaint it in green. Order terminals, tray, atmosphere of fast food chain tradi. Except that instead of a rare steak, veganitude is coming... an accessible version, with no slogans or "healthy elite" badges. Just awesome. And that’s really cool.

Because yes, the burger is really good. But like really! Greedy, ultra generous, not at all there to pretend. The (soy) steak doesn’t hide and seek behind sauces and toppings. No, no... it moves forward with a rounded chest, like a boss on the plate.

The fries? They do the workout without being transcendent, but clearly, you don’t leave them out. As for the sauce, it’s extra... so not tasted on my end. But basically, it’s a rather good idea: it prevents sending tons of them in the trash.

And then the menu does not stop at the burger, just to vary the pleasures and satisfy the chronic undecided.

Anyway... validated. Even without being vegan. And maybe that’s the real achievement.

49 Bd de Clichy, 75009 Paris / 54 Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 75011 Paris

10 – 15 €

 

MANNIE

 

For a long time, veggie burgers tried to pretend to be something other than themselves. Like a friend who shows up with a mustache at a party and hopes we don’t recognize him. Fake steak, fake bacon, fake cheddar... All this to reassure the frightened meatlover. And then there is a new wave of restaurants that want to break it, and among them, there is Mannie.

Over there, the plant no longer asks for permission. It lands on the table, quiet, like: "today, I’m the boss." And honestly? It works a hundred times over.

Already the buns... Ultra soft. The kind of bread that gently crunches between the fingers before taking back its shape like a palace cushion. Then come the toppings, and there... it’s crazy. Katsu eggplant that’s as mellow as it is crispy, spicy broccoli that sends just enough heat, halloumi golden like a small ingot, ultra-chopped sauces that drip lightly onto the fingers—and we all know that the best burgers always end up on the phalanges a bit.

The place looks like a cool mini cafeteria where we come as much to eat as to do good to our spirits. It discusses, it crunches, it soothes the last crumbs of bread. And above all... After three bites, the brain completely forgets the word “vegetarian”. No one is around anymore to compare, replace, or compensate for anything. We’re just eating a good burger. Period.

This is probably Mannie’s real achievement: not having a militant “veggie” restaurant that watches you eat with gravity. But to make a real good burger shop, greedy, comforting, generous. With, in the process, an intelligent reflection on the place, the seasons and a more responsible street-food.

Like what... maybe the future of the burger doesn’t look like a steak after all. And honestly? It suits him just as well.

32 Rue Coquillière, 75001 Paris

10 – 15€