By Jean-Pierre Montanay
Citrus lovers have always had a soft spot for the unique flavor of the most famous lemon of all—the Menton lemon. Its delicate balance of acidity and sweetness is made possible by a tropical and exceptional microclimate, allowing it to thrive on the hillsides of the seaside town since the 15th century. Ten years ago, it gained further prestige by receiving a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), which turned this citrus fruit into the 'prince' of lemons, praised by chefs—especially pastry chefs. However, in recent winters, it has faced an identity crisis brought on by climate change: at times subject to heavy rainfall, like last winter, and at others hit by severe droughts, as in 2022 and 2023. The lemons are often either too scrawny due to lack of water or, on the contrary, oversized from excess rain. In both cases, the Menton lemon becomes unfit for Category A—the only one eligible for PGI labeling. The specifications are strict: cultivation methods, spacing between trees, packaging, and, of course, exact size requirements. Each lemon must measure between 53 and 90 millimeters—no more—and any fruit that is misshapen or blemished is also downgraded. The result is a significant financial loss for producers, who must sell these non-compliant lemons at half the price, even though their quality and flavor remain intact. Under pressure from farmers, exemptions were granted in 2022 to allow PGI status in certain cases. Today, the conversation is shifting from reactive measures to a proactive approach—adapting standards and requirements to the current climate reality. That may well be the cost of saving what is affectionately known as the 'caviar' of the Riviera.
